It’s Cold Outside!

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The temperatures this week ranged between -17 and -21 degrees celsius, which meant it was too cold to venture outside much, except for essentials like groceries, so…crafting it was!

First up, were trousers for baby Star, who was feeling a mite chilly in all the winter weather we’ve been having. (No shirt as yet, but we have plans…)

These comfy trousers feature easy to knit garter stitch striping, and short rows to make sure baby has lots of wiggle room for climbing and crawling around.

If you are interested in making these trousers for a baby of your own, the pattern is listed at the bottom of this post.

After watching me knit for a bit, The Ag babies started clamouring for their share of my attention. The poor little ones were still sitting on their Christmas sled, so after some thought, I decided they needed a crib or two.

Being a person who is likely to cut off a thumb or something if I tried cutting wood, I had to think of some other medium to use for a crib construction. Recalling the Kruselings’ beds I had made from foam board, I decided to try my hand at foam board construction again. I pulled out 1/4 inch foam board, 3/16 inch doweling sticks and 5 1/4 by 5 3/4 inch wooden rectangles (both purchased from the dollar store), as well as small wooden spools (purchased from the craft store), to start my project.

I used 1/4 inch graph paper to draw a crib base and side railings. I traced the pattern pieces onto my foam board, and then cut them out with an x-acto knife. I cut four crib bases (two are not shown in the photo) and four bed railings.

I used a ruler to measure every 3/4 inch across the bottom of each crib railing. At one side of each railing, there was a 1 inch space left. Next, I used a knitting needle slightly smaller than the diameter of the wooden dowels, to pierce shallow holes in the bottom of each bed railing, where I had made the markings.

I used my x-acto knife to cut the wooden dowels into 4 inch pieces. I cut 12 pieces for each bed rail. I marked each end of the dowel pieces at 1/4 inches. Putting a bit of wood glue on one end of a dowel, I then pushed the dowel carefully into the foam portion of a railing until it reached my 1/4 inch mark.

After gluing all of the dowels into each railing, this is what they looked like.

I used a ruler to mark the same 3/4 inch spacings onto each side of one bed base, being careful to have the 1 inch left over spaces at the same ends of the base. The markings were made a little over 1/4 inch from each long side of the crib base so that later, the dowels would not tear the side edges of the foam board.

This time, I used a knitting needle of the same diameter as the wooden dowels to punch holes right through the markings on each crib base.

This is the underside of the crib base. The holes look messy, but it is important for the knitting needle to pierce all the way through the foam board to make the next step in the crib building process go smoothly.

I put wood glue on the end of each dowel, and making sure the railings lined up correctly with the 1 inch end space, I pushed the dowels into each crib base hole until they were flush with the bottom of the base. I did this with both sides of the crib.

After letting the glue on the railings dry in place, I next glued the second crib base piece onto the bottom of the first. This hid the holes in the bottom of the first crib base, and also added strength to the crib. So as not to damage the foam board, I used painter’s tape to “clamp” the crib bases together until the glue dried. (Just be careful to peel the tape off slowly later on, to ensure you don’t peel away the outer layers of the foam board pieces.)

The next step was to glue the ends of the crib onto the crib base and railing bars. Here, I had to hold the railing in place for a few minutes while the glue set, to ensure the railings stayed wide enough apart. They tended to cave inward toward the centre of the end piece, but with slight pressure, it was easy to get them to stay where they needed to be.

The last step was to glue the wooden spools to the bottom of the crib for legs. I used three spools across the centre of the crib to ensure the crib base would not begin to sag once the baby started sleeping in her new crib. (This might not really be a necessary precaution, but having seen many book shelves sag in the middle from the weight of too many books, I like to play it safe!)

Once I get out to the craft store, I will paint the crib, which will also help to build more stability into it. The crib might not stand up to heavy usage by a child, but for adult usage, it is quite durable.

Little Hannah is quite a happy girl!

And Susie is, too!

As promised above, here is the pattern for the trousers for a baby Sasha.

Sasha Baby Knitted Trousers

Materials:

Hobby Rainbow cotton 8/4 – 1 ball (50 grams – approximately 170 metres)

Knitting needles 2.75 mm (UK – 12; US 2)

Approximately 8 and 1/2 inches (22 and a 1/2 cm) of 1/4 “ wide elastic or shirring elastic as needed

Stitch holder or spare piece of yarn

Tension:

7 stitches per 1 inch/2.5 cm in stockinette stitch

Stitches used: 

Stockinette stitch – 1) Knit. 

        2) Knit 1, purl to last stitch, knit 1.

Rib stitch – 1) K 2, *p 1, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

                  2) *K 1, p 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

Abbreviations:

Knit – k

Purl – p

M 1 – Make one inc (pick up loop between stitch just worked and next stitch to be knitted, knit through loop from the top side e.g., the result is a new twisted knit stitch)

K 2 tog – knit the next two stitches together as one – decrease made

Sl – slip next stitch

Psso – pass slipped stitch over stitch just knit – decrease made

Sts – stitches

Sasha Baby Knitted Trousers

First leg:

Cast on 23 stitches.

  1. K 2, *p 1, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.
  2. *K 1, p 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1. 
  3. K 2, *p 1, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.
  4. *K 1, p 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.
  5. *K 2, m 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1 (34 sts).
  6. K 1, p 3, *k 1, p 4,*  repeat from star to star to last 5 stitches, k 1, p 3, k 1.
  7. Knit.
  8. K 1, p 3, *k 1, p 4,*  repeat from star to star to last 5 stitches, k 1, p 3, k 1.

Repeat rows 7 and 8, 4 times more.

17) K 1, m 1, knit across to last stitch, m 1, k 1 (36 sts).

18) K 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to end of row.

19) Knit.

20) K 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to end of row.

21) Knit.

22) K 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to end of row.

23) K 1, m 1, knit to last st, m 1, k 1 (38 sts).

24) K 2, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

25) Knit.

26) K 2, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

27) K 1, m 1, knit to last st, m 1, k 1 (40 sts).

28) K 1, p 1, k 1, * p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 2 stitches, p 1, k 1.

29) Knit.

30) K 1, p 1, k 1, * p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 2 stitches, p 1, k 1.

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to sew seams with later.  Place stitches onto a spare piece of yarn or a stitch holder.

Second leg:

Complete the second leg as for the first, but do not cut yarn at the end of row 30.

Join legs for body of trousers:

  1. Cast off 1 stitch, k 36, sl 1, k 1, psso, place stitches from first leg back onto left hand needle, k 2 tog, k 38.
  2. Cast off 1 stitch, k 1, (p 4, k 1) 7 times, p 2, k 1, (p 4, k 1) 7 times, k 1.
  3. K 1, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 33, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 2 tog, k 33, k 2 tog, k 1.
  4. K 1, (p 4, k 1) 6 times, p 10, k 1, (p 4, k 1) 6 times.
  5. K 1, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 32, p 2 tog, k 32, k 2 tog, k 1 (69 sts).
  6. K 1, p 3, k 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 4 stitches, p 3, k 1.
  7. Knit.
  8. K 1, p 3, k 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 4 stitches, p 3, k 1.
  9. Knit.
  10. K 1, p 3, k 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 4 stitches, p 3, k 1.
  11. Knit.
  12. Begin short rows: K 1, p 3, k 1, (P 4, k 1) 3 times, turn.
  13. Sl 1, knit to end of row.
  14. K 1, p 3, k 1, (p 4, k 1) 2 times, turn.
  15. Sl 1, knit to end of row.
  16. K 1, p 3, k 1, p 4, k 1, turn.
  17. Sl 1, knit to end of row.
  18. K 1, p 3, k 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star across entire row, to last 4 stitches, p 3, k 1.
  19. Begin short rows: k 20, turn.
  20. Sl 1, (p 4, k 1) 3 times, p 3, k 1.
  21. K 15, turn.
  22. Sl 1, (p 4, k 1) 2 times, p 3, k 1.
  23. K 10, turn.
  24. Sl 1, p 4, k 1, p 3, k 1.
  25. K 9, p 1, k 4, p 1, k 4, p 1, knit to end of entire row.
  26. K 1, p 3, k 1, *p 4, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last 4 stitches, p 3, k 1.

Continue to work in pattern for 8 more rows.

35) Decrease row: K 1, k 2 tog, *k 4, k 2 tog,* repeat from star to star to last 6 stitches, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2 (57 sts).

36) *K 1, p 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

37) K 2, *p 1, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

38) *K 1, p 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

39) K 2, *p 1, k 1,* repeat from star to star to last stitch, k 1.

Cast off in rib.

Finishing:

Sew back steam.  

Sew leg seams. 

Overlap ends of the 8 and 1/2 inch piece of elastic by about 3/4 inch ( about 2 cm), and sew together.  Place elastic circle over wrong side of ribbed waistband.  Using a long strand of yarn, encase elastic to waistband.  Alternatively, use shirring elastic to gather waistband to fit.

Copyright 2023 Cynthia’s Designs

Please enjoy this pattern, but do not reprint without permission.  If selling items made from this pattern, please credit Cynthia’s Designs for the pattern.

NE PAS DIFFUSER/TRADUcTIoN DH/ GRoUPE FB/TRIcoT ET PlUS…DH/FévRIER 2023

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Matériel :

Hobby Rainbow coton 8/4 – 1 ball (50 gr– environ 170 m) Aiguilles 2.75 mm (UK12/US 2)
1 élastique plat pour la taille 22 cm x environ 2 cm.
Arrêt de mailles.

Tension :

7 m = 2.5 cm en jersey.

Côtes

1) 2 m end, *1 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end. 2) *1 m end, 1 m env * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.

AUG – Faire une augmentation (relever la boucle entre la maille qui vient d’être tricotée et la maille suivante à tricoter, tricoter la boucle torse = nouvelle maille torse.

EXPLICATIONS :

Première jambe : Monter 23 mailles.

  1. 2 m end, *1 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
  2. *1 m end, 1 m env * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
  3. 2 m end, *1 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
  4. *1 m end, 1 m env * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
  5. *2 m end, 1 aug * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end (34 m).
  6. 1mend,3menv,*1mend,4menv*répéterjusqu’aux5dernièresm,1mend,3menv,1 m end.
  7. Mailles endroit.
  8. 1mend,3menv,*1mend,4menv*répéterjusqu’aux5dernièresm,1mend,3menv,1 m end.

Répéter les rangs 7 et 8, 4 fois encore.

17) 1 m end, 1 aug, m end jusqu’à la dernières m, 1 aug, 1 m end (36 m). 18) 1 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter tout le rang.
19) Mailles endroit.
20) 1 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter tout le rang.

21) Mailles endroit.
22) 1 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter tout le rang.

Sasha Baby Knitted Trousers

NE PAS DIFFUSER/TRADUcTIoN DH/ GRoUPE FB/TRIcoT ET PlUS…DH/FévRIER 2023

23) 1 m end, 1 aug, m end jusqu’à la dernières m, 1 aug, 1 m end (38 m).
24) 2 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
25) Mailles endroit.
26) 2 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
27) 1 m end, 1 aug, m end jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 aug, 1 m end (40 m).
28) 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, * 4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’aux 2 dernières m, 1 m env, 1 m end. 29) Mailles endroit.

30) 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, * 4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’aux 2 dernières m, 1 m env, 1 m end. Couper le fil en laissant une assez longue queue pour faire les coutures plus tard. Placer les mailles sur un arrêt de maille.
Seconde jambe :

Tricoter la deuxième jambe comme pour la première, mais ne coupez pas le fil à la fin du rang 30.

Joindre les jambes pour le haut du pantalon :

1. Rabattre 1 m, 36 m end, 1 surjet simple, remettre les mailles de la première jambe sur l’aiguille gauche, 2 m end ens, 38 m end.

  1. Rabattre1m,1mend,(4menv,1mend)7fois,2menv,1mend,(4menv,1mend) 7 fois, 1 m end.
  2. 1 m end, 1 surjet simple, 33 m end, 1 surjet simple, 2 m end ens, 33 m end, 2 m end ens, 1 m end.
  3. 1 m end, (4 m env, 1 m end) 6 fois, 10 m env, 1 m end, (4 m env, 1 m end) 6 fois.
  4. 1mend,1surjetsimple,32mend,2menvens,32mend,2mendens,1mend(69m).
  5. 1mend,3menv,1mend,*4menv,1mend*répéterjusqu’aux4dernièresm,3menv,1 m end.
  6. Mailles endroit.
  7. 1mend,3menv,1mend,*4menv,1mend*répéterjusqu’aux4dernièresm,3menv, 1 m end.
  8. Mailles endroit.
  9. 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’aux 4 dernières m, 3 m env,1 m end.
  10. Mailles endroit.
  11. Rangs courts : 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, (4 m env, 1 m end) 3 fois, tourner.
  12. Glisser 1 m, m end tout le rang.
  13. 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, (4 m env, 1 m end) 2 fois, tourner.
  14. Glisser 1 m, m end tout le rang.
  15. 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, 4 m env, 1 m end, tourner.
  16. Glisser 1 m, m end tout le rang.
  17. 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, *4 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’aux 4 dernières m, 3 m end,1 m end.
  18. Rangs courts : 20 m end, tourner.
  19. Glisser 1 m, (4 m env, 1 m end) 3 fois, 3 m env, 1 m end.
  20. 15 m end, tourner.
  21. Glisser 1 m, (4 m env, 1 m end) 2 fois, 3 m env, 1 m end.
  22. 10 m end, tourner.
  23. Glisser 1 m, 4 m env, 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end.
  24. 9 m end, 1 m env, 4 m end, 1 m env, 4 m end, 1 m env, m end pour finir.

NE PAS DIFFUSER/TRADUcTIoN DH/ GRoUPE FB/TRIcoT ET PlUS…DH/FévRIER 2023

26. 1 m end, 3 m env, 1 m end, *4 m end, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’aux 4 dernières m, 3 m env, 1 m end.

Continuer à tricoter pendant 8 rangs supplémentaires.
35) Rang de diminutions : 1 m end, 2 m end ens, *4 m end, 2 m end ens * répéter jusqu’aux 6 dernières m, 2 m end, 2 m end ens, 2 m end (57 m).
36) *1 m end, 1 m env * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
37) 2 m end, *1 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
38) *1 m end, 1 m env * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
39) 2 m end, *1 m env, 1 m end * répéter jusqu’à la dernière m, 1 m end.
Rabattre en côtes.

Finition :

nécessaires.

Faire

les coutures 

page3image9459392 

Copyright 2023 Cynthia’s Designs

Vous pouvez profiter de ce modèle, mais ne le réimprimez pas sans autorisation. Si vous vendez des articles fabriqués à partir de ce modèle, veuillez créditer Cynthia’s Designs pour le modèle.https://smalldolladventures.ca/

Superposer les extrémités du morceau d’élastique de 22 cm x environ 2 cm et coudre ensemble. Placer le cercle élastique sur l’envers de la ceinture côtelée. À l’aide d’un long fil de laine, enveloppez l’élastique à la taille. Vous pouvez également utiliser un élastique à fronces pour assembler la taille.

10 thoughts on “It’s Cold Outside!”

  2. Way cute! Maybe in the future a tiny patchwork quilt? Or a print that looks like patchwork? Warm and cozy. And it gives the babies somewhere safe to be.

    Reply

    • Thank you for your compliment! They will definitely get some bedding for the cribs soon. I want to choose paint colours first though so the bedding can co-ordinate. I am thinking a mattress pad, sheet and quilt…

      Reply

  3. Great little wooden spools as bed legs. Personally, I had made a sofa for my Kruselings ladies and used wooden beads, but I like the idea of the bobbins.
    Baby Sasha’s pants are very pretty. Well done Cynthia.
    Kisses

    Reply

    • Thank you for your compliments! I have used beads for legs, too, but the spools are sometimes better for their height and sturdiness when making something in a larger scale, I think.

      Reply

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